Late Victorian 18ct Gold & Silver Natural Saltwater Pearl and Antique Diamond Bangle, Circa 1890 – GCS Certified

An exceptional late Victorian bangle combining a certified natural saltwater pearl with the warm, softly scintillating beauty of twenty-six hand-cut antique diamonds.

Dating to circa 1890, the bangle has been crafted with a substantial 18ct gold body, professionally tested, while the pearl and diamonds are held in silver settings. The naturally oxidised silver creates a rich, darkened contrast against the warm gold and is characteristic of fine diamond jewellery from the Victorian period.

At the centre is a rare natural saltwater pearl measuring approximately 7.6–7.7 × 6.9mm. Unlike a cultured pearl, it formed entirely without human intervention.

The accompanying report from Gemmological Certification Services confirms the pearl as natural and saltwater in origin, from a mollusc of the Pteriidae family. It is described as cream in colour, with Orient, Very Good lustre and no indications of treatment.

“Orient” refers to the delicate iridescent play of colour produced by the pearl’s natural layers of nacre. As the light and viewing angle change, subtle shifting tones appear across its soft cream-coloured surface.

Surrounding the pearl are twelve natural old mine-cut diamonds, each measuring approximately 2.75mm in diameter. Their high crowns, small tables and individually irregular hand-cut facets create the broad, warm flashes associated with early diamond cutting.

A further fourteen smaller natural diamonds extend along the shoulders of the bangle, with seven stones on each side. On each side, the five diamonds nearest the pearl are old mine cuts, while the two outermost stones are antique rose cuts.

The two historic cutting styles create a subtle transition across the design. The old mine cuts offer greater depth and lively, individual fire, while the low-profile rose cuts reflect the light with a softer and more restrained glow.

All fourteen shoulder diamonds are set within overlapping, leaf-shaped silver mounts and gradually diminish towards the ends, drawing the eye towards the central pearl and diamond flower cluster.

The bangle contains twenty-six natural antique diamonds in total: twenty-two old mine cuts and four rose cuts. Based on their visible dimensions and mounted condition, the estimated total diamond weight is approximately 1.40–1.50 carats. As the stones have not been removed from their settings, this figure is provided as an estimate only.

Weighing approximately 20.44g, the bangle feels beautifully substantial. Its oval interior sits naturally around the wrist, while the original fastening and safety chain remain in place.

Details

• Period: Late Victorian
• Date: Circa 1890
• Type: Antique bangle
• Main metal: 18ct gold, professionally tested
• Gemstone settings: Silver
• Hallmarks: None
• Centre gemstone: Natural saltwater pearl
• Mollusc: Pteriidae family
• Pearl colour: Cream
• Pearl overtone: Orient
• Pearl lustre: Very Good
• Pearl dimensions: Approximately 7.6–7.7 × 6.9mm
• Treatment: No indications of treatment
• Pearl-surround diamonds: 12 natural old mine-cut diamonds
• Halo diamond diameter: Approximately 2.75mm each
• Shoulder diamonds: 7 on each side, 14 in total
• Each shoulder: 5 old mine cuts and 2 terminal rose cuts
• Old mine-cut diamonds: 22 in total
• Rose-cut diamonds: 4 in total
• Total natural diamonds: 26
• Estimated total diamond weight: Approximately 1.40–1.50ct
• Total weight: Approximately 20.44g
• Internal dimensions: Approximately 5.8 × 4.8cm
• Measured internal circumference: Approximately 17.1cm
• Fitting: Original safety chain
• Certificate: Gemmological Certification Services, London
• GCS report number: 79231-13
• Report date: 29 August 2019

Why You’ll Love It

This bangle brings together three particularly desirable features of Victorian jewellery: a certified natural saltwater pearl, individually hand-cut antique diamonds and the traditional combination of silver settings over a substantial gold body.

The contrast between the pearl’s soft cream-coloured glow, the irregular fire of the old mine cuts and the quieter shimmer of the rose cuts gives the piece remarkable depth and character.

Its original construction, generous weight and beautifully preserved safety chain further enhance its historic appeal and collectability.

Condition

In excellent antique condition, with natural signs of age and previous wear consistent with a piece dating to circa 1890.

The silver settings retain an attractive darkened patina and natural oxidation. The pearl and diamonds remain securely set, and the fastening and safety chain are intact.

Please examine all photographs and videos carefully, as they form an important part of the description.

Shipping

Worldwide shipping from London,UK.

The bangle will be carefully packaged and dispatched using a tracked and insured service. A telephone number may be required for international courier delivery and customs clearance.

Any applicable import duties, taxes or customs charges are the responsibility of the buyer.

About SHECH

SHECH is a London-based jewellery company specialising in carefully selected antique and vintage jewellery.

Each piece is chosen for its history, craftsmanship and individual beauty. Our jewellery is professionally tested, accurately described and carefully prepared for its next custodian.