Late 18th Century Portuguese Natural Chrysoberyl Silver-Gilt Pendant Brooch, Foil-Backed, Circa 1770–1800

A magnificent late eighteenth-century Portuguese jewel, illuminated by the soft yellow-green brilliance of natural chrysoberyl.

Dating to circa 1770–1800, this antique pendant brooch is crafted in silver-gilt and designed in an elegant elongated form. Sculptural ribbon bows frame the composition, while graduated gemstones create a beautifully balanced arrangement of colour and light.

The jewel is set throughout with professionally tested natural chrysoberyls in delicate shades of pale yellow, greenish yellow and soft green. Each stone has been individually hand-cut in an assortment of antique round, oval, pear and marquise-shaped forms. The largest chrysoberyl measures approximately 8mm in diameter.

The gemstones are held in traditional closed-back settings with reflective foil beneath them. This characteristic eighteenth-century technique was intended to enhance their colour and brilliance, particularly in candlelight.

Several stones display the traditional dark-painted culet effect associated with Portuguese jewellery of this period. The small dark points create an impression of depth similar to the dark culets seen in antique-cut diamonds. These are natural chrysoberyls and should not be confused with black-dot paste.

The silver-gilt construction retains a warm golden tone to the reverse, while the silver-toned gemstone settings display a naturally aged patina that provides a beautiful contrast with the pale green chrysoberyls. The reverse also reveals the individually formed, rounded closed-back settings.

An articulated connection allows the lower section to move gently when worn. A pendant loop and brooch pin to the reverse allow this versatile jewel to be worn as either a pendant or a brooch.

Details

• Date: Circa 1770–1800
• Period: Late eighteenth century / Georgian era
• Origin: Portugal
• Metal: Silver-gilt
• Gemstones: Professionally tested natural chrysoberyls
• Colours: Pale yellow, greenish yellow and soft green
• Cuts: Antique round, oval, pear and marquise-shaped cuts
• Largest gemstone: Approximately 8mm in diameter
• Settings: Traditional closed-back settings with reflective foil
• Detail: Traditional dark-painted culet effect visible beneath several stones
• Design: Articulated double-ribbon-bow composition
• Function: Pendant and brooch
• Dimensions: Approximately 6 × 2.3cm
• Weight: Approximately 12.72g
• Professionally examined

Why You’ll Love It

This exceptional jewel embodies the distinctive beauty of eighteenth-century Portuguese jewellery.

Its delicately varied natural chrysoberyls glow with soft yellow-green light, while the hand-cut stones, sculptural bows and articulated construction demonstrate the remarkable skill of its original makers.

The surviving foil-backed settings are particularly important to its historical character. Combined with its generous proportions and versatile pendant-brooch design, they make this a highly decorative and collectible example of antique Portuguese craftsmanship.

Condition

In good antique condition, with natural patination, surface wear and minor age-related marks consistent with a jewel more than two centuries old.

The silver-gilt reverse retains its warm colour, while the front settings display attractive natural darkening. The articulated section moves correctly, and the pendant loop and brooch fitting remain functional.

As the gemstones are foil-backed and set in closed settings, the jewel must not be immersed in water or cleaned ultrasonically. Exposure to liquids, steam, chemicals or excessive heat may damage the historic foil and alter the appearance of the stones.

Please examine all photographs carefully, as they form an important part of the description.

Shipping

Worldwide shipping from London.

Your jewel will be carefully packaged and sent by a tracked and insured service. A telephone number may be required for international courier delivery.

About SHECH

SHECH London specialises in carefully selected antique and vintage jewellery, chosen for its craftsmanship, history and enduring beauty.

Each piece is professionally examined and described with particular attention to its materials, construction and condition.